QRZ! Ham Radio 8/QRZ Ham Radio Callsign Database - Volume 8.iso/pc/files/q_review/accys.txt

Internet Message Format | 1996-06-25 | 28KB

Date: Sun, 25 Jul 93 15:46:05 -0500
From: [e-mail] (Charles Adams)
Message-Id: <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail]
Subject: SWR Analyzer es Keyboard de MFJ



Gang,

just a quick report on the trip to "Ham Holiday" the swapfest in
Oklahoma City OK.  somebody has to drive north on I35 aperiodically
to make sure the Red River is still there and i'm here to report
that it still is.  :-)

i just went up for Saturday, which was long enough for me to part
with some of my money.

i had reported last year on the net, when there was flame wars
going on for MFJ products.  i don't think that i'll ever learn.
i'm already educated beyond my intelligence anyway.


MFJ-451 Morse Keyboard - A Review by Chuck Adams K5FO

i normally use either a Heath Ultrapro Keyboard or when i'm
practicing on the Bencher i use an AEA MM-3 or CK-2 keyer.
the heath is losing one of the memory chips for the 10 memory
buffers and i hadn't taken the time to fix it, so i saw the
MFJ-451.  thought, what the hey, it was reduced i'll just buy
one.  replace the large AT keyboard with the small one i have
on a 386 and take up less space (vertically) on the operating
desk.

the MFJ-451 keyboard has an unmodified keyboard (AT type) that
plugs into a small box (sorry, i'm at the office and don't have
the exact size).  got it home, opened the box, plugged it in,
and it worked outta the box.  didn't even have to read the
instructions.  only two parts and parts is parts, right?

ok, get the instructions, get through them in short order and
know how to set the speed, load the two buffers, adjust the tone
(the volume controlled with a knob on the little processor box),
learn to program the beacon operation up to 99min 99sec delay,
and use the serial numbering in time to use it for SS.  :-)

ok kids, so far so good.  fire up the QRP rig on 40 for the sunday
morning schedule and call cq.  get another qrp in st louis mo.
worked about 20 minutes at 30 wpm and stood by for the group.
no answer and the other guy signs.

fine.  so far so good.  ok, 40 not all that hot, let's go up to
30 (another fine QRP band).  WHOW BUCKAROO!!  it is very very
obvious that noone at MFJ works 30 meters.  this little keyboard
sucks canal water when it comes to putting out trash on 30 meters.
it's S9+ and then some.  i can't hear the digital guys above
10.110 with this thing on.  ;-)

ok, look at the schematic.  uses 80C32 Intel processor clocked at
***10 MHz***.  only decoupling caps in the system are four 0.1uF
caps.  bad news.  ok, i'll help, give me phillips.  two screws to the case
and its apart.  hey, nice little board, double sided silk screened
plated through solder masked.  not bad.  ok, three more screws to
remove board and a model airplane prop-nut driver to remove volume
control nut.  board comes out and i turn it over.  GEEEEZ!!!
we have 12 year olds learning to solder here or what?  the second
worst soldering job in the world that i've seen.  you guessed it
the first place is the MFJ-249 HF/VHF SWR ANALYZER.  see second half
of this posting.

i take pride in my work, no matter what it is, and i'd think that
others do too.  component leads were not cut short and overlapped
PC board paths and on and on i could go, but i won't.

it works, but once again, bad quality control for cosmetics.  if it
works, ship it!!!

if you plan on working 30 meters, do not (and i repeat) do not
buy this keyboard until you hear from me that they got the problem
fixed.  i thought that i'd play with some ferrite beads strategically
placed, but no way am i going to spend my valuable time doing this.
going to call them on monday and ship the little box for a revision.
or else.

i didn't pay the $89.95 list price and got a good deal, but not
that great.


MFJ-249 HF/VHF SWR ANALYZER - A Review by Chuck Adams K5FO

this is the deluxe swr analyzer by MFJ.  list price of $199.95, which
of course i didn't pay at the swapmeet.  :-)

i had asked the qrp mail group about these and got a response after
the fact and as it turns out, i made the right decision.  we all get
lucky once in a while.

MFJ has another analyzer MFJ-207 which is the same without the
frequency counter.  i have a heath counter, but i prefer to put
all my eggs in one basket and have a small self-contained unit
like the 249.  once again, outta the box, hook up 12V supply and
fire it up.  worked first time every time.  hook it up to the 80
meter long wire and check it out.  GREAT.  with the digital readout
for frequency and the analog meter for direct reading SWR, it's
very easy to see where you are and how good the antenna is doing.
checked all the bands from 160 to 10 Meters.  i had my previous
settings from measurements made at 1 watt with Oak Hills QRP wattmeter.
they were correct (of course).  but, the MFJ makes it very easy.  none
of the forward vs backward, etc.  just read it and weep or smile.

one of the questions i asked the friendy sales rep was how much
does this little puppy put out.  it obviously must generate rf
to the antenna to get the swr.  he didn't know and the MFJ manual
does not say one word.  so, couple of pieces of RG58U with PL259s
and in goes the OHR QRP WM-1 meter.  2mW (that's 2 milliwatts) out
from 1.8 to 170MHz.  constant and true.  good news as that is the
requirement to not have an adjustment for meter calibration.
i wouldn't part with the OHR for love or money.  need it for
power measurements for 10 W down to 1 mW.

i assume, since the MFJ-249 device transmits outta band (i did this
into a dummy load guys and girls and FCC) i assume that it is
type accepted or something like that.  being an avid QRPer, i
know what 2 mW can do when the bands are right.  and outside
of the ham bands you can easily get a clear frequency.  ;-)
that why the HT mods i see posted here in rec.amateur.radio.misc?????

frequency meter is accurate as tested with heath counter and
3.600000 output from the wwv clock.  without the counter (the 207), MFJ put
dial with freq markings and i understand from another individual
that has one, they aren't all that great.  not good if you're tuning
an antenna from phone down to cw band or whatever.

ok, let's look at the schematic?  what, no schematic in the booklet
or box!!  ok, take the back off.  BIG mistake big mistake (line from
Pretty Woman, the movie).  the worst soldering job i've seen.  tied
with MFJ-815B Cross-Needle 1.8-60MHz SWR/Wattmeter.  close behind
is the above keyboard system.  somebody in QC outta work on this
or start selling them as kits.  i can do a better job easily.

the counter is SMT (surface mount technology and i assume it was
wave soldered) and separate from the badly soldered board.  another
board also SMT and wave soldered for RF generator.  at least i hope
so.  i didn't want to see any more and put it back together.

so, final results.  MFJ-249 SWR Analyzer.  good deal.  MFJ-451 keyboard
is a bad bad idea.  wait til Christmas or later on this keyboard.
both are new items and maybe with feedback we can get MFJ to do
a little better.......

73 es 72 de k5fo    dit    dit


------cut here----------
Chuck Adams, K5FO - CP60
[e-mail]

======================================================================


I want to thank everyone that was involved in the R&R Associates
deal for the CMOS Super Keyer II deal.  I received mine on Friday,
October 8th.  If you remember from posts some time ago to this
group, the kit was for $25 + $1 for programming + $1 S&H.

I keep hearing feedback from numerous places that due to the
fire in a plastics plant in Japan, the IC market has been hit
fairly hard causing numerous price increases, delays in components,
etc.  Motorola has a backlog for the MC68HC705C8P microprocessor,
the one used in this kit, and there is also a price increase to $19
each - up from $10.80 for the old price, in small quantities like
R&R is getting.  So the price of the kit is now $32 + $1 + $1 in
the note that I got from R&R.

In the kit I got the micro, associated parts, a small speaker 8ohm
2inch (for monitor, but I don't think I'll use it due to poor
quality), and two small PC boards (and for the same reason I won't
be using these).  The boards were hand drilled and no way a socket
(not included - 80 pin) is ever going to go onto the board due to
alignment.  I will be wirewrapping (I can still do that stuff) this
critter onto a small perf board with wirewrap sockets and wirewrap
pins.  Think I'll put this in one of the NN1G xcvrs (the 40M one)
and see how it does.  It (CMOS keyer) runs for a long time on two AA cells.

With the kit came a four page photocopy of the November 1990 QST
article by KC0Q and N0II and two page photocopy of a Manual Supplement:
Version 2.0 from Logikey K-1 CMOS Super Keyer II Kit (Copyright 1991).
Also a one page "catalog" from R&R for PC Boards from 73, QST, and
ARRL HB circuits.  I don't think I'll be ordering any of these after
my experience as outlined here.

In summary, I think maybe the $49 kit price from Idiom Press might
just be a better deal.  It wasn't that I was trying to be cheap, but
the price of $25 + change looked too good to be true (and it was).
My personal opinions expressed above.  I'd like to hear comments
from the others, but they may not wish to be so open as I.  Hope
they are having better results.

Anyone in this group get the Idiom Press kit?


Is this a record?  Is the first negative review that I've done?
I think it is.  OK, back to my hole where I hope it's still warm.
:-)

Hope to see you during the Fall QRP ARCI QSO Party next weekend.

73 from the ranch of k5fo     dit     dit

======================================================================

Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1993 08:29:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: "JEFF M. GOLD" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Cmos Keyer
To: [e-mail]
Message-Id: <[e-mail]>
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X-Vms-Cc: JMG
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Hi,

Well Chuck's first was a negative review, I think for the first time I
might have to disagree a little with Chuck (sorry).

I finally received my keyer kit yesterday. I own the Idiom press $50
version which I love.. think is the best keyer I own.. and have used in
many a contest.... The $50 kit had a board and the board parts... I nice
thick operations manual. I needed to provide the push buttons and all
jacks and such. The $25 kit came with the board and board parts and 4
push buttons that already had wires coming off and a small speaker
(haven't tried it.. real cheap looking.. but that is all you really
need.. I never use my speaker in the other keyer except to program the
memories and functions.. all other times use the rigs sidetone.. sounds
better and uses the batteries much less).

Well at breakfast this morning proceeded to check out Chuck's comments.
I cleaned the bottom of the board with isopropal alcohol and took the
chip socket out.. the socket had some bent legs.. easily straightened
them out and the socked went right into the board.. I soldered it in and
the board took the solder with no problem. This wasn't the best quality
board I have seen, but certainly no problem or nothing worth complaining
about. I noticed that one of the solder pads really was almost
non-existent and you really couldn't solder to it. I checked the
schematic and it isn't used anyway.. I think the other 39 legs will hold
it to the board.

If this works correctly, I feel it is one of the biggest bargains out
there. Curtis keyer chip keyer kits are going for $39-$59. They don't
have memories or any of the other functions.. like reversing dits and
dashes and a mess of other stuff..I still think for $50 the idiom press
is also quite a bargain.


72

Jeff, AC4HF

======================================================================

Date: Wed, 13 Oct 93 21:36:48 PDT
From: [e-mail] (Doug Hendricks)
Message-Id: <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail]
Subject: QQ for Oct?

I see from Chuck's postings that the October issue of QQ is out.  Mine is not
here yet.  Will someone send me a list of the Table of Contents so I will
be even more anxious for my copy to arrive?  Also, I want to apologize to
the net.  I am the one who originally posted the availability of the Super
Cmos II Keyer kits from Richard Rathburn.  I posted it in response to a
request from Vicki Welch.  Chuck, I did get mine and it was excellent as far
as I could tell.  Mine works great.  I did replace the buttons with some from
Radio Shack, and used a different speaker, but other than that, I love mine.
Have to agree with Jeff on the review.  But, I did not realize that he was
going to take so loooong to deliver!!  Maybe it is like a friend of mine who
likes to tell his customers, "You can have it Good, Fast or Cheap, Pick any
two you want."   My kit was good, cheap, but boy did it take a long time to
get here.  My advice is that if you want it fast, order from Idiom Press.
72, Doug

======================================================================

From: [e-mail] ( Jim Osburn          )
Message-Id: <[e-mail]>
Subject: More on DSP 40
To: [e-mail] (QRP Mailing List),
        [e-mail] (Keith Hoover),
        [e-mail] (Jack Derry)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 9:15:05 EST
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11]
Sender: [e-mail]
Precedence: bulk

I saw a message about the DSP-40, a copy is attached to the end of this one,
on one of the newsgroups.
Being interested in DSP, I rushed right out and bought one.
My intention was to use it in the contest, but I didn't get to work any
of the contest due to other obligations (sigh).
I did get to play with the thing for about half an hour.
Here are my first impressions.

First, since several have asked what it is, I'll try to describe it.
It's a black plastic box with knobs on the front and connectors on the back.
It has an 1/8" audio in jack, a 1/8" external speaker jack, and a
coaxial power connector for 12 VDC.  On the front is a 1/4" phone jack.
An audio amplifier and speaker are built in.  The speaker is mounted
in the top of the box.

On the front is a volume control which also turns the unit on and off.
To the right of the volume control is the DSP button.  With the DSP
button out, the unit is just an audio amplifier.  With the DSP button
in, the unit is an audio DSP.  Also to the right of the volume control
is an LED that flickers to indicate audio input level, which is on solid
when the unit is in CW mode.

To the left is a function switch and a bandwidth switch.  The function
switch has three positions, NR, SSB and CW.  The bandwidth switch has
three postions, Narrow, Medium and Wide.  When the unit is in the NR or
SSB mode, it will eliminate steady audio tones.  In all three modes,
the unit will do bandpass filtering, the bandwidth varies with both
the function selected and the bandwidth selected.  I left the user's manual
at home, but I remember that the narrowest SSB bandwidth was about 300 Hz
to 2 kHz and the narrowest CW bandwidth was about 600 Hz to 900 Hz.

The unit does work, but I would say a phone operator might be more interested
in it than a CW operator.  In the CW mode, the unit seems to me to just be
a narrow audio filter.  Frankly, I like my MFJ active filter better.
My active filter is also cheaper, I got it used for $5.00 at a hamfest.
The DSP-40 is about $80.00.

A phone operator would like the automatic notch filter function.
It is effective.  The bandpass filtering also helps, but most rigs
already have bandpass fitlering.

I have not yet noticed that noise reduction does a lot.  However,
I've only played with it for about half an hour.  Also, if you're
listening to signals that are already good, the DSP-40 can actually
make them worse.

Yes, you can hear the quantization noise.  If you're use to picking
weak signals out of the noise, it's very noticable.  I have a hunch
this is an eight bit unit.  I am experimenting with implementing
the W9GR stuff on a TI DSP Starter's Kit that has a 14 bit AIC.
I hope I get better results with it.

You can do some silly things with the unit too.  You can put it into
SSB mode while listening to CW and see if you can copy with just the
key clicks.  You can wiggle your rig's tuning knob and see how long
it takes the DSP-40 to adjust.  You can listen to a SW music broadcast
and see how nicely the notch filter mutilates that.  You can also listen
to AM SW as SSB using the DSP-40 to notch out the carrier.

Here are my conclusions.  If you're interested in learning more about
DSP and want to play like I do, buy it.  If you just want better CW
reception, don't buy it.  Buy a good active filter instead.  If you're
a phone operator that can't stand people tuning up on your QSO, buy it.
If you only work strong stations with excellent signals, don't buy it.

Those are my impressions so far.  Hopefully others will evaluate and
review the unit for us too.

A copy of the post I saw about the DSP-40 is attached.

73,

Jim, WD9EYB

From: [e-mail] (John Albert)
Subject: Radio Shack DSP
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Sender: [e-mail] (News)
Nntp-Posting-Host: tellabb
Organization: Tellabs, Lisle,IL
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 1994 12:56:08 GMT
Lines: 34

Radio Shack is in the DSP race with their new DSP-40
noise reduction system.

It's a black box with a speaker, 12 volt and input chord.
It has 2 three position switches and a volume control.
One switch selects wide, medium and narrow. The other selects
CW, SSB and NR.

The CW position selects narrow audio filters and allows a
CW tone to pass.  The other positions (SSB and NR) reject CW
or heterodynes and provide a noise reduction filter.  The other
switch selects the filter bandwidths.  The volume knob controls
the audio level and there's a 5 watt internal amplifier/speaker.

The unit does a nice job nulling carriers but does very little
noise cancelling.  The narrow CW mode works fine but the I.F.
filter in my Kenwood 440 does a much better job.   The unit
makes a great mobile speaker for my H.T. and it runs on 12 volts
but $80.00 is a little steep for a mobile use.  I purchased it
so I can compare it to the Hamblaster which does a much better
job reducing noise.

Inside is a PCB that's partially covered with a sheild.  Under the
bottom sheild there's a Texas Instruments chip with unknown markings.
It's probably a custom chip with a TMS320C10 core.  The top side
probably has the A-D/D-A.  I didn't look at the number.

---
   Jack Albert  WA9FVP             Fellow Radio Hacker
                     Tele [phone]
   Tellabs Operations, Inc.     FAX  [phone]
   1000 Remington Blvd.         [e-mail]
   Bolingbrook, IL  60440

======================================================================

To: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: Keyer Info
Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1993 20:25:46 -0700
From: Clark Savage Turner WA3JPG <[e-mail]>
Message-Id:  <[e-mail]>

Doug Hendricks is interested in a Memory Keyer.  My own take on this situation
is that the CMOS Super Keyer II in the (nov?) 1990 QST is easy to build
and has adequate memory for my contesting tastes.  It is really great
to operate, cheap, etc.  Love it to death.  Really.  The feel of the keyer
is far better than any other I have ever used.  Now if I could just find
the right paddles (Bencher is "adequate" for the job.)

The only possible drawback is the amount of memory and the basic 4 locations
for those memories.  If you get real fancy with contesting, it may not
do the trick.  If you are interested, write me directly and I can tell you
more about my experience with the CMOS Super Keyer II.

Clark

======================================================================

Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1993 11:05:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Jeff M. Gold" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Keyers
To: [e-mail]

HI,

I agree, my first ham radio kit was the Super keyer using the Idiom
Press parts kits. The keyer without even the memory is worth the price.
It has the best self-completing dots and dashes and feel I have ever
used. I have built at least 4 keyers (avoid the "Cheap Keyer" from the
Handbook.. the worst.. I use it mobile and hate it), and find this to be
the best. For contest use, we at the University Club, always use it. The
way it was set up for contesting is much easier to use and much better
thought out than any I have come across.

73


======================================================================

Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 08:49:15
From: [e-mail] (Howard Lester)
To: [e-mail]
Subject: keeping the tradition alive
Message-Id: <QC023FFC@mmpc6>

I have a new Vibroplex Brass Racer iambic paddle to replace the Bencher I had
borrowed for several months. The Vibroplex is wonderful, and, as David
Letterman would say, "easy on the eyes". It is a heavy brushed brass piece
on a triangular rosewood base. Simply made, its tension on each paddle is
adjusted with sliding magnets - no springs. The price is similar to a
Bencher: $65.

You have just read an unsolicited testimonial from:

Howard KE7QJ

======================================================================

From: [e-mail] (Victoria Welch)
Subject: Thoughts on keyers and keys...
To: [e-mail]
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1993 19:05:24 -0500 (CDT)

    ....

As for the key itself, get a Kent, you'll never regret it.  I had a
bencher and was less than impressed with it.  I never did get it
adjusted (and it wasn't for lack of trying :) and if disturbed it
would erupt in a shower of parts (I hear the new ones are better about
that) or if undisturbed, it would go off at 0300 due to the
expansion coefficients of dissimilar metals (my husband loved that :)
as I like movement to be minimal.

The Kent, on the other hand, makes you WANT to do cw.  Its solid and
VERY easy to adjust (I don't mind someone else adjusting this one as it
is so easy to get re-adjusted).  I have had the Kent for about the
same amount of time (now) that I had the bencher and have probably
used it 20+ times as much, its really a pleasure.  I even replaced the
plastic paddles with oak using the plastic ones as a template !  I am
quite pleased and several people I know have gotten them after using
mine (and I from using KE9GGs).  Someone here stateside is supposed to
be carrying them now so you don't have to wait for Dayton or Dallas or
mail order it from England.

As a last note, the thing is also SOLID.  Mine spent a couple of
months bouncing around in by briefcase with no problems at all.  I
wanna see someone with a bencher try that <grin>.
    ...
Take care es 72, Vikki.
--
Vikki Welch, SysAdm Welch Research, WV9K, DoD#-13, NEIQRP# 13, ARCI#(NOT)
[e-mail](daily), [e-mail](weekly), arrl(NOT)

======================================================================

Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1993 10:14:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Jeff M. Gold" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Kent Keys
To: [e-mail]
Message-Id: <[e-mail]>

I received and built my 2 Kent Key kits.

The first one I buildt was the Twin Paddle Morse Key kit. It
has a real heavy steel base. The main parts are machined
from brass bar. It has ball race bearing, solid silver
contacts and fine pitch screw threads with instrument knuled
heads that allow precision and individual adjustement on
each of the two contacts and springs.

The kit comes with the main pars assembled. It was fun to
put together.. and very easy. I suggest reading each
sentence of the instructions a few times before acting on
it. The directions are kinda backwards in my opininion.. EX:
it will tell you to mount a part with a certain size screw..
after you have put on the necessary washer and solder lug..
instead of telling you to put on the solder lug, washer and
then mounting the part.. no big deal.. still easy to put
together.

Really pretty key... the plastic paddles can be mounted
either with the pointed parts up or down.. I tried it both
ways and mounted them up.. fits the way I send perfectly.

The paddles work GREAT.. you can adjust them down to "breath
on them" level of sensitivity. I sold my Benchers
immediately after using them.  They can't fly apart like
Benchers.. the arms are solid.

Next I put together the Solid Brass Morse Key kit.. a BIG
straight key.. Had fun putting it together. This key is tied
with the nicest feeling straight keys I have ever used..
still also like my Merrick solid brass from Canada. The Kent
has all brass parts on a nicely finished piece of wood that
has weights that go inside it.

The Kent is really nicely weighted...precision adjustable..
haven't had time to try every possible adjustment yet.. but
easily got it to the point of loving the feel. Has a big
knob with the flat underpiece..I am experimenting with a
different approach to sending with it...I think it is like
the old telegraph style.

A great key.. only thing I don't like is they should have
used a harder wood.. the wood can be indented with any
pressure.. not good for really using it environment.

I feel both keys were bargains.. don't remember exactly the
prices (sent them in with the order). I think the paddles
were around $65 and the straight key around $75 or visa
versa.


R. A. Kent Engineers
PO Box 809
Mount Ida, AR 71957-0809


73

Jeff, AC4H

======================================================================

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 11:32:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Jeff M. Gold" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Simple home made paddles
To: [e-mail]
Message-Id: <[e-mail]>
X-Vms-To: IN%"[e-mail]"
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Hi.. here is my idea:

for my backpack I came up with a simple and inexpinsive rugged set of
paddles to use for QRP. You can see a picture of them in the new ham
section of Feb. 1993 QST.. think I even described them.

I took a plexiglass organizer and hacksawed off the pencil holder
(probable can find one for about .98 or use something else). It is about
a one inch square by 4". I tried all types of levers and finally came up
with a simpler and better approach. I used the metal pieces that are in
the back of almost every IBM clone as place holder for adding
peripherals (when you add a peripheral.. you throw these away.. very
easy to come by). They have the back bent over and a screw hole already.

I cut some holes in the middle of the plexiglass and used very sensitive
momentary pushbuttons... had some small RS pushbuttons, but they didn't
work as well. You can get a good selection at ham fests usually.

I bolted the metal pieces on the back of the plexiglass with 2 screws
each. I bent them around the buttons till slight pressure closed the
switches.  I cut a small finger grip size  (used rounder English style
rather than Bencher) plexiglass pieces and bolted them to the front of
the metal pieces. I mounted the plexiglass on a piece of wood and bolted
some brass weight to the bottom.

Worst case is that I have to slightly bend the metal to the feel i like
when I get where I am going. They work real well and have been using
them for quite some time now. They can be built for about $3.00 or so..
or you might have everything you need.

73

Jeff,AC4HF